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There
really is a lot to see. You would not think so from a guidebook that
covers the whole region, like the Michelin Poitou-Vendée-Charentes.
I recommend the Hachette Vacances Guide to Poitou-Charentes
(in English). It's more informative and more fun to use.
Within
20 minutes' drive of Rouillac are some ancient and medieval monuments,
small towns and places to relax by the river. Further afield are the
towns of Cognac, Angoulême, Saintes, Surgères and La Rochelle.
Estimate 75-90 minutes to get to the nearest seaside resorts and islands,
of which Ile de Ré is the poshest and busiest (toll bridge).
Going south towards Dordogne, you have the lovely town of Brantôme
and an enormous monolithic church with Mithraic remains at Aubeterre-sur-Dronne.
MAIN
PICTURE ABOVE: Out of high season, Aix is
a delightful place for a day trip. You can stay at the Hôtel Napoléon
(the building shown on the right) or pitch camp inside one of the forts.
But you have to carry everything with you (no cars allowed). There are
also one or two B&Bs. Good beaches and quiet: a big contrast to
the bigger islands. Take the ferry 'Pierre Loti' from the tip of Fouras
peninsula (see below).
Click
on the small images below to enlarge.
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Hardly
Brittany, but the best dolmen site is at Garde Epée, near
Bourg-Charente. Nearby is a Renaissance castle
which you can't, unfortunately, visit. Who is the lucky owner?
There's an important ruined church a kilometre away at Châtres.
Another dolmen of note is at Saint-Fort-sur-le-Né, with
two more on a minor road near Tusson. |
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The
pets' cemetery (paradise) at Saint-Catherine
(near Les Bouchauds) barely needs further comment! Quite a pleasant
spot to be laid to rest, even if you are not a cat. |
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When
it is really hot, it's very tempting to jump into the river, and
there are a number of places where it is safe to do so, such as
next to the campsite at Jarnac. You could cycle or walk to quieter
Vibrac where you can also get a cold drink or
a meal at Les Ombrages. |
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There
is a wonderful 13th-century knights' cemetery at Ligné,
near the protected village of Tusson. In particular, look at the
carvings on some of the tombs. |
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Saint-Amant-de-Boixe
near Montignac is the biggest church in Charente after Saint-Pierre
in Angoulême. It retains some wall paintings, wooden stairs
and other antique features. See also the neighbouring abbey buildings.
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If
you go East from Saint-Amant you will drive through the ancient
forest of Boixe and find a sign for the dolmen.
Not to be confused with the fallen 'sacrificial stone', this tumulus
is a neolithic necropolis (bring a torch). It bears comparison
with Maes Howe in Orkney and others in France. |
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It's
only about 30 minutes to Saint-Jean d'Angély,
an attractive town with interesting monuments such as the huge abbey
and some ancient houses. Several good restaurants and shops. |
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It
takes slightly longer to get to Saintes, but
it is well worth the trip. Top-quality Roman and Romanesque remains,
good museums, and good shops, a market and restaurants. A lovely
town with a hint of sophistication. |
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The
marais is a different world from the seaside towns and
agricultural panoramas of Charente-Maritime. If you are travelling
to or from Saint-Malo, stop at Coulon or La Garette
by the canal for lunch. Sunday morning food market at Coulon. |
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The
nearest seaside resort (with some of the cleanest beaches) is
Fouras, about 75 minutes from Rouillac, from
which you can take a ferry to the Ile d'Aix, passing Fort Boyard,
of TV fame. If heading west, Rochefort and Surgères are
also worth a visit. |
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Another
interesting seaside stop is the fortified town of Brouage.
Busy in summer but peaceful out of season. Good cafés, and
very good birdwatching nearby on the marshes. |
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Ile
Madame is even less well-known than Aix. Access only
at low tide by causeway. You can walk or drive over. Superb views
of the coast, Fouras, and other islands, with a popular if isolated
restaurant. Don't get stranded - almost nobody lives here.
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OK,
La Rochelle is over an hour away, but you must
make time to go. Enjoy a boat trip to one of the islands or just
window-shop in 'Paris-by-the-Sea'. Quite a contrast to the rest
of the region with its 'cosmopolitan ambience'. |
Copyright
© 2001-2016 Colin Wight
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