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There
really is a lot to see. You would not think so from a
guidebook which covers the whole region, like the Michelin
Poitou-Vendée-Charentes. I recommend the Hachette
Vacances Guide to Poitou-Charentes (in English) for being more informative
and more fun to use.
Within
20 minutes' drive of Rouillac are ancient and medieval monuments,
small towns and places to relax. A bit further afield are the towns of Cognac, Angoulême, Saintes, Surgères and La Rochelle.
Estimate 75-90 minutes to get to the seaside and the nearest islands,
of which Ile de Ré is the poshest and busiest (toll bridge).
Going south towards Dordogne, you have the lovely town of Brantôme
and an enormous monolithic church with Mithraic vestiges at Aubeterre-sur-Dronne.
MAIN PICTURE
ABOVE: Out of high season, Aix is a delightful place
for a day trip. You can stay at the Hôtel Napoléon (the
building shown on the right) or pitch camp inside one of the forts.
But you have to carry everything with you (no cars allowed). There are
also one or two B&Bs. Good beaches and quiet: a big contrast to
the other, bigger islands. Take the ferry 'Pierre Loti' from the tip
of Fouras peninsula (see below).
Click
on the small images below to enlarge.
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Hardly
Brittany, but the best dolmen site is at Garde Epée, near
Bourg-Charente. Nearby is a Renaissance castle
which you can't, unfortunately, visit (who is the lucky owner?).
There's an important ruined church a kilometre away at Châtres.
Another dolmen of note is at Saint-Fort-sur-le-Né, with
two more on a minor road near Tusson. |
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The
pets' cemetery (paradise) at Saint-Catherine
(near Les Bouchauds) barely needs further comment from me! Quite
a pleasant spot to be laid to rest, even if you are not a cat.
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When
it is really hot, it's very tempting to jump into the river, and
there are a number of places where it is safe to do so, such as
next to the campsite at Jarnac. You could cycle or walk to quieter
Vibrac where you can get a cold drink or a meal
at Les Ombrages. |
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There
is a wonderful 13th-century knights' cemetery at Ligné,
near the protected village of Tusson. In particular, look at the
carvings on some of the tombs. |
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Saint-Amant-de-Boixe
near Montignac is the biggest church in Charente after Saint-Pierre
in Angoulême. It retains some wall paintings, wooden stairs
and other antique features. See also the neighbouring abbey buildings.
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If
you go East from Saint-Amant you will drive through the ancient
forest of Boixe and find a sign for the dolmen.
Not to be confused with the fallen 'sacrificial stone', this tumulus
is a neolithic necropolis which you can enter (bring a torch).
It bears comparison with Maes Howe in Orkney and others in France. |
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It's
only about 30 minutes to Saint-Jean d'Angély,
an attractive town with interesting monuments such as an abbey and
some ancient houses. This place is growing on me. |
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It
takes slightly longer to get to Saintes and it
is well worth the trip. Top-quality Roman and Romanesque remains,
good museums, and good shops and restaurants too. A lovely town
with a hint of sophistication. |
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The
marais is a very different world from the seaside towns
and agricultural panoramas of the Charente-Maritime. If you are
travelling to or from Saint-Malo, stop at Coulon
or La Garette by the canal for lunch. Sunday morning food market. |
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The
nearest seaside resort (with some of the cleanest beaches) is
Fouras, about 75 minutes from Rouillac, from
which you can take a ferry to the Ile d'Aix, passing Fort Boyard,
of TV fame. If heading west, Rochefort and Surgères are
also worth a visit. |
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Another
interesting seaside stopover is the fortified town of Brouage.
Busy in summer but peaceful out of season. Good cafés, and
very good birdwatching nearby on the marshes. |
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Ile
Madame is even less well-known than Aix. Access at low
tide only by causeway, although you can drive over it. Superb views
of the coast, Fouras, and other islands, with a popular if isolated
restaurant. Don't get stranded - almost nobody lives here.
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OK,
I agree that La Rochelle is a fair way away,
but you must make time to go there. Enjoy a boat trip to one of
the islands or just window-shop in 'Paris by the Sea'. Quite a contrast
to the rest of the region with its 'cosmopolitan ambience'. Swarms
of Anglo-Saxons at every turn. |
Copyright
© 2001-2010 Colin Wight & Anne Young
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